Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide lists installed epoxy at about $4 to $10 per square foot nationally, or $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage. Polyaspartic and full flake systems usually run higher, and grinding off an old coating or repairing salt damage adds to the total. We give you a written price after seeing the floor.

A 12x12 floor is 144 square feet. At HomeGuide's $4 to $10 per square foot that is roughly $580 to $1,440, but small rooms often cost more per foot because setup, grinding and travel are the same as on a bigger job. Many installers have a minimum charge, so we quote small floors individually.

Epoxy needs a dry, clean, ground slab, and it can lift if moisture or oil is trapped under it. Standard epoxy cures slowly, and HomeGuide says solid epoxy takes about seven days to fully cure. It can also yellow in sunlight without a UV-stable topcoat and get slick when wet without texture. We plan for each of those before the first coat.

Yes, when the slab is sound and prepared. A bonded resin coating seals the surface against oil, salt brine and dust and makes the floor much easier to clean. It will not fix a slab that is heaving or leaking, and we say so if we find that.

It depends on the system and the temperature. Bob Vila's coating guide says polyaspartic floors usually take vehicles after about 24 hours, while epoxy needs about three days. We give you a time for your floor based on the product and the conditions that day.

Resin floors are common in kitchens, clinics, retail and light industrial space because they are seamless and easy to clean. Commercial floors usually need a thicker 100% solids build, and HomeAdvisor lists industrial coatings at $12 or more per square foot. We look at traffic, chemicals and cleaning methods before choosing the system.

Sometimes. Every resin has minimum slab and air temperatures for curing, and an unheated Carmel garage in January is often below them. We check the slab temperature and may heat the space, or we schedule the job for a warmer stretch.

HomeGuide's national figures are about $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage and $2,300 to $8,600 for a three-car garage. Salt damage, old coatings and the finish you choose move the price. We write up a firm number after seeing the floor.

HomeGuide says solid epoxy floors last about 10 to 20 years, while water-based kit coatings may need recoating every 3 to 5 years. Prep, the topcoat and how the floor is cared for in winter make the biggest difference.

A glossy solid coat can be slick when wet. Flake floors have built-in texture, and we can add anti-slip aggregate to the topcoat on solid floors.

Usually the prep. Etching does not remove sealers or weak surface concrete, and hot tires can lift a thin coating off that layer. A ground slab and a thicker system bond far better.

For most garages, yes. The chips add texture and hide salt film, dust and small scuffs. Solid color looks cleaner and more modern but shows dirt sooner.

After the chips are scraped and the topcoat goes on, the surface has a light texture similar to an orange peel. More topcoat makes it smoother, and added aggregate makes it grippier.

Not on top of the old finish. The existing coating has to be ground to a sound surface or removed first, then a new base and broadcast go down.

Sweep or dust mop weekly, squeegee out winter meltwater and wash with a pH-neutral cleaner. Skip solvents and acidic cleaners, which can dull the topcoat.

It cures faster and resists UV better. Epoxy builds thicker per coat and costs less. Many floors use both: an epoxy base with a polyaspartic topcoat.

HomeGuide estimates 10 to 20 or more years for residential polyaspartic floors. Prep quality and how the floor is cleaned in winter affect that.

Many garage floors can be ground, coated and walkable in one day. Parking usually waits about 24 hours. Repairs or a moisture primer can add time.

HomeGuide rates it as not DIY-friendly. It cures fast, so it has to be mixed and spread quickly and evenly, and mistakes are hard to fix once it sets.

This Old House lists metallic epoxy at $5 to $12 per square foot. Floor size, number of colors, slab repairs and any moisture primer move the price within that range.

The gloss finish can be slick when wet. We can add a fine anti-slip additive to the clear coat or use a satin finish in areas near a walkout door or bar sink.

It can, but salt, tire marks and grit show quickly on the glossy finish. Most Carmel owners choose flake for the garage and metallic for the basement or bar.

Fine scratches can show on gloss over time. Felt pads, mats at entrances and regular dust mopping help, and the clear coat can be refreshed later.

Often, if the dampness is vapor and not running water. We test the slab and use a moisture-tolerant primer when needed. Active leaks or seepage need to be fixed first.

No. It seals the surface and cracks, which can help as part of a plan, but radon mitigation is a separate system. Indiana counties are all in EPA Zone 1 or 2, so test before you coat.

The coating takes on the slab's temperature, so it feels like concrete. Area rugs work well on top, and a flake finish feels less slick in socks.

Light foot traffic is usually fine within a day, and furniture can go back after a few days depending on the product. We give you written times.

Yes, when the system is chosen for it. Kitchens need a seamless, textured floor that handles hot water, grease and cleaning chemicals, often with coved edges at the walls.

It depends on traffic, cleaning and the system. A thin coating under daily cart and pallet traffic wears much faster than a thick 100% solids build in an office or clinic. Worn traffic lanes can usually be sanded and given a fresh topcoat before the base wears through.

Yes. We schedule nights and weekends and phase large floors so part of the space stays open.

Sometimes. If the old coating is well bonded, we can abrade it and recoat. If it is peeling or contaminated, it has to come off first.